Hello and
Welcome,
This is the climate update for the month of September 2012.
We seem to be hurtling quite uncontrollably through the most incredible growing season - EVER! The tail end of September has been a continuation of warm sunny days and cool nights with virtually no threat of rain. In fact, we are not worried about the birds and the deer, we are looking for cold bier! And that brings us to the thirstiest of months – Okto-Vember.
The last few nights have brought out a beautiful harvest moon. It is a wondrous ending to a perfect day, which fosters yet another stunning sunrise. Our 45,144 little winemakers are basking in this luxurious pre-harvest lull. They have ripened their seeds some time ago, so the pressure is off. Now, they enjoy the gentle breeze caressing their leaves in the afternoon sun, quite oblivious to all of the work they have created for us.
The last few nights have brought out a beautiful harvest moon. It is a wondrous ending to a perfect day, which fosters yet another stunning sunrise. Our 45,144 little winemakers are basking in this luxurious pre-harvest lull. They have ripened their seeds some time ago, so the pressure is off. Now, they enjoy the gentle breeze caressing their leaves in the afternoon sun, quite oblivious to all of the work they have created for us.
We seem to be about 1 week away from the controlled chaos of
harvest. That is plenty of time to wash all of the bins and buckets and get the
tractors and harvest trailers ready to go. Ernie went cruising the vineyard this
weekend to sample a few clusters and get a read on how we are progressing. It is
just a little “test fire” before we get going.
We grow 5 varieties of wine and each of them has a different
program. In fact, our Chardonnay “swings both ways” with a barrel and stainless
steel fermentation. Woody Allen said something about how to double your chances
for a date on Saturday night, but it is not quite the same thing.
At
this time of year we are looking at a few factors to help determine where we are
on the harvest timeline. These factors include:
Sugars and Acids – This is very analytical and the
easiest to measure, but usually the least important. The fermentable sugar
content in grapes is measured in a scale called Brix – it is both singular and
plural (note the Woody Allen reference above.)
We like to harvest our wine within the range of 21 to 24 Brix
because we know that each Brix converts to about 0.6 percent alcohol. This
harvest range will give us final alcohol in the 12.5 to 14.4 percent range. Our
hope is that the flavors in the skins develop before we reach 24 Brix. Viognier
is the one to watch here, as it likes to build sugars much earlier than
developing flavors.
Our acids are measured by a pH meter and this gives us a rough
guide to the maturity of the fruit. A low pH such as 3.0 tells us there is
plenty of acid in the juice and we are looking for more hang time. A high pH
such as 3.7 is of concern due to over ripeness and potential for spoilage
organisms in the fermenters.
However, this is the one area where we can influence the fruit’s
development. If needed in a moderate to warm vintage, we can add back the
grapes’ natural acid, Tartaric acid. Note, this was not much of a concern in the
past 2 vintages. But there is a catch, as the acids we are measuring now include
both Malic and Tartaric. As part of the winemaking process, Malic acid (think
green apples) is usually converted by a few industrious little bacteria into
Lactic acid (think milk.) This is a “softer” acid and will lessen the perception
of acidity. The only wine we produce where we block this conversion is our
stainless steel fermented Chardonnay. We like it a little tart, and we know you
do too.
Seeds – You can learn a lot from a seed. The first
thing
we look for is how much “jelly” or pulp is left around the seeds. A few weeks
before harvest, the pulp has the perception of jelly that encapsulates the
seeds. As the berries mature, the pulp around the seeds begins to break down. As
we approach ripeness in the skins, this perception of jelly is all but gone.
The seeds themselves also tell a tale. Early in the year the
seeds start off white and very soft. Then comes lag phase where the seeds begin
to develop a “woody” exterior and start to turn bright green. As the season
progresses, the bright green turns to Martini olive green and eventually to
brown. A very mature seed will look like grape nuts cereal and be very
crunchy.
Seed ripeness is important as the exterior coating of the seed
protects it from the intestinal tract of the animal that is helping to propagate
the vine in a remote location. This seed coating also helps to prevent the
bitter tannin of the seed from being extracted into the hot alcohol of
fermentation. Excessive seed tannin in your wine will not get you a second
date.
Juice color – That’s right. We worry about color
before we harvest, but not in the final wine and here is why. Hidden deep
in the skins are color pigments that are held in vacuoles. As the berries mature,
they are actually breaking down cell walls and making it easier for the pigment
to escape into the juice. If the berries are not very mature, you get less color
in the juice. As the season progresses, more cell walls break down and the color
is more easily extracted from the skins.
Skin flavor, texture and aroma – This is the most
telling of all the factors we employ. Once we see the numbers align and the
seeds ripen, we rely on flavors and textures in the skins to make the final
call. That call results in about 20 people equipped with 5 gallon buckets and
clippers to descend upon the vineyard at first light. It is a beautiful thing,
and you can see for yourself by watching our own harvest video right
here! You can also have a look at these
harvest criteria through the eyes and blog of Pam Spettel of Sticks
Forks and Fingers.
While all of the factors listed above are indicators of
ripeness, being able resist the temptation to pick too early is the ultimate
sign of maturity in growing your own wine. It’s gonna rain eventually, it just
has to. But we can be confident in our farming techniques and prowess to hold
firm when we need to, and get on it when the time is right.
Speaking of the right time, let’s look back upon September from
Okto-vember’s vantage point. It almost seems like too much of a good thing. 2012
is the first vintage we can remember with such a beautiful summer. It has been
warm, but not too hot with a nice breeze and no rain. If anything, we could be
running up against conditions that give us too much sugar, but not enough
flavors. So, we look for Mother Nature to back off the throttles a little bit
and take inspiration from Yosemite Sam.
When I say whoa, I mean WHOA!
The last half of September gave us 206 Degree Days that, when
added to the 244 from the first half of the month, yield 450 Degree Days for the
entire month and 1,924 Degree Days for the growing season to date. That puts us
on par with 2008, and about 100 Degree Days shy of 2009 and almost right where
2005 ended up.
Our highest high for the first half of the month was 97.1 and
91.7 was the high for the second half. Yes, we verified the numbers, but have a
second look if you need to. The low for the first half of the month was 41.0 and
44.7 for the latter half. Maybe a little less on offense, but the defense picked
up the slack. And no rain, which leaves us with a growing season total of
8.96 inches.
As we look forward and “lean into it,” we see a couple more
really nice ripening weeks with temps ranging from the 70’s to the 30’s and then
it will be all hands on deck. There will be the occasional shower, or downpour.
Hopefully, the peanut gallery will be a little pre-occupied with the
quadru-annual circus that has descended upon most of the country and we will get
this harvest in with minimal fanfare. Either way, here is what we will be
listening to in a couple of weeks:
Now we're at the seasons' end with winds and rain, you
bet
We've got to pick those grapes, but they aint ready
yet!
It seems like forever that we wait for this one day
Detailed plans we make, but Mother Nature leads the
way
Yipie Meunier, Yipie Pinot
But for the grace of God, this could be you
Sung to the tune of "Ghost Riders in the Sky"
Kindest Regards,
Dena & Ernie
