An Update on the Chardonnay Program
at Amalie Robert Estate
Spring 2016
It all started out innocently
enough. At the turn of the century we had just acquired the last best place on
Earth to grow exotically expressive Pinot Noir and thought that if we planted
Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, we could make sparkling wine. Ah, to be young
again…
Aka: What was I thinking?
So it was, we passed on the rest
of the planets and chose the sedimentary soils of Oregon ’s
Northern Willamette Valley
They say you always remember your
first, and our first harvest was 2002. At dawn we approached block 24 from the
south with high hopes, new buckets and clippers at the ready. It seems like
just yesterday. We began harvesting at the bottom of the rows and worked our
way to the top. The birds began harvesting in the middle of the rows and they
always kept just a few vines ahead of us. For the first few years, most of our
Chardonnay production was sold.
Our Estate grown Chardonnay is
comprised of 2 Dijon Clones – 76 & 95, both grafted onto a deep rooted,
vintage extending rootstock called 5C. This rootstock takes a bit longer to
build sugars, which allows for longer hang-time to develop stunning aromas and
flavors. Growing wine on 5C clearly represents the road less travelled with
most growers choosing earlier to ripen rootstocks. But 5C has proven itself
worthy especially in these recent warm vintages where we can hang longer into
the vintage to develop aromas and flavors without excessive sugar accumulation.
Once Ernie decides he has all of
the aroma and flavor he is going to get from the vintage, he pulls the trigger
on harvest. Bucket after bucket of hand harvested, golden hued berries are
loaded into harvest bins for a very short ride to the winery where the press is
eagerly awaiting them.
Our Chardonnay is always whole
cluster pressed as they do in Champagne .
The reason behind this is that we are “acid enthusiasts.” By NOT
crushing the berries before going into the press, we are able to extract wildly
expressive Chardonnay character without releasing the potassium bound to the
inside of the skins. It is potassium that raises our pH and reduces the
perception of acidity. Our whole cluster press method allows for pure aroma and
flavor punctuated with crisp acidity. While it is the case that we get less
juice than those who crush, we feel it is better juice.
The pressed juice settles
overnight and the next day we move the juice by gravity to ferment. In the
early years, we just used 1,000 liter stainless steel tanks. As we became more comfortable
with our aroma and flavor profiles and the style of wine we wanted to create,
we chose a 500 liter puncheon for our Heirloom Cameo barrel fermented chardonnay
(BFC.)
Note: Puncheon is just a
code word for a 500 liter barrel. They can also be coopered into 400 and 600
liters. While we don’t use them, a feuillette is a half barrel with a
capacity of 114 liters. Good to know!
Our Chardonnay fermentations usually
last about 2 to 3 weeks, but in some cases can last 2 or 3 months – Oh joy… A
secondary or malolactic conversion will convert the malic acid (think Granny
Smith green apple acid) into a softer lactic acid. Stylistically, we block this
conversion in our stainless steel fermented Chardonnay, Her Silhouette. The
Heirloom Cameo BFC may see partial, full or no conversion whatsoever depending
on the vintage - Aka Mother Nature’s mood.
The fermentation space in our
multi-level, gravity flow winery is not heated and that is where Her Silhouette
spends the winter months. As the temperature drops, all of the little “wine
diamonds” form on the sides and bottom of the tank. After a few weeks of this
cold stabilization we rack the wine from the tanks and are ready to bottle a
new vintage of clean and crisp Her Silhouette Chardonnay. We keep the wine
diamonds here at the winery and out of your glass.
The Heirloom Cameo BFC takes a
different route to the bottling line. Once the primary fermentation finishes in
barrel, we may inoculate with bacteria to perform the malolactic conversion.
These little bacteria are quite finicky and will only convert malic acid to
lactic acid if the alcohol, acidity and temperature are just right. The art of
winemaking meets the precision of science.
Either way, with or without the
malolactic conversion, the wine remains in the new 500 liter puncheon for about
14 months. During this time the pure aromas and flavors of Chardonnay are
intertwining with the mildly toasted, tight grained French oak. And around the
12 month mark another little bit of magic is revealed. The yeast that fermented
the whole cluster pressed juice begin to break down, it was just a matter of
time. For the next couple of months, the wine gains a bit of richness and a
little weight, or what we like to call “palate presence.” Remove the wine from
barrel too soon and you miss this significant nuance in the wine.
And speaking of the barrel, why
do we use a 500 liter puncheon instead of a regular sized 228 liter Burgundy barrel?
The reason is we are using the barrel to add some texture without overpowering
the wine with excessive wood tannins or oak sweetness. It’s really all about
surface to volume ratios. Consider the pepperoni to crust ratio in the personal
sized pizza to the extra large pizza. We have significantly more wine to absorb
the new oak influence with a 500 liter puncheon. We also save out the butter
for the popcorn.
Add 14 months of puncheon barrel
age to the mix and we are ready for a trip to the fermentation floor for a few
weeks of cold stabilization. The Heirloom Cameo from the prior harvest and the
Her Silhouette from the current harvest sit side by side in identical tanks. It
falls under the “science” part of winemaking to appropriately and legibly mark
each tank.
Now, not many people know this
about Chardonnay, but it used to be the favorite wine of Swashbucklers, Pirates
and other nefarious characters. Before they discovered the Caribbean ,
and rum, you could hear them yell out for a flagon of CHAAAAAAAAAARDONNAY!!
We grow all of our wine including
Chardonnay at Amalie Robert Estate under the watchful eye, and sometimes
excessive rains, of Mother Nature. Our wines are Estate Bottled which means we
have had complete control over our entire process onsite from growing
the fruit, to fermenting the wine through to blending and bottling. We are also
the bottling team, so you can rest assured that we have seen the process
through from beginning to end (and there is a free cork in every bottle!)
Her Silhouette Chardonnay reveals
Estate grown Chardonnay in its purest form. We strive to capture the pure,
unadulterated essence of Chardonnay harvested at first light.
Her Silhouette is fermented in
stainless steel at cool temperatures to showcase the aromatic profile of
Chardonnay. We block the malolactic conversion to preserve Chardonnay’s natural
acidity providing a disciplined finish.
The combination of Estate grown
Dijon Clone fruit from sedimentary soils, stewarded through fermentation with
very little winemaking intervention results in unrelenting aromas with an
intensely flavored palate experience punctuated with trenchant acidity. This is
intentioned Oregon Chardonnay that exemplifies the true character of the
vineyard, vintage and the variety. Case production varies between 100 – 200
cases.
2013 Her Silhouette
- Wine
Enthusiast, April 2016 - 92 points, Editors’ Choice
2012 Her Silhouette
Lifted and light, this
stainless-steel-fermented chardonnay reads almost like an Alsace wine, its heady apple scents lifted
with peach notes. The flavors are invigorating and tense, the pear-like
juiciness framed by a phenolic grip. Chill it down for clam pasta.
- Wine &
Spirits Magazine, December 2015 – 91 points, Best Buy
An interesting comparison to the
previous vintage, this wine has a point and a half more alcohol, with a rich,
substantial mouthfeel. Ripe citrus fruit, light tropical fruit and full, open
flavors are found on the palate. Drink this while in its youth, and let the
previous vintage age another couple of years.
- Wine
Enthusiast, June 2015 – 90 points
2011 Her Silhouette
If your tastes run to
fruit-driven, all-stainless, crisp and steely Chardonnays, this is a great
choice. Bright pineapple and citrus fruit flavors abound, and the acids, though
substantial, are juicy and natural. The balance, freshness and overall value
put this among best of class.
- Wine
Enthusiast, June 2015 – 90 points, Editors’ Choice
2009 Her Silhouette
Tart and slender, this is
deceptive at first it seems a little thin, but as it opens in the glass into a
succulent, well-defined, racy wine with citrus and peach, mineral and herb.
It's not delicate, but its muscularity is concealed behind elegant styling.
- Wine
Enthusiast, March 2011– 90 points, Editors’ Choice
Heirloom Cameo Chardonnay
is our BFC. Or as Dena would explain it: “This wine wraps you in an elegant
silk scarf and instantly makes you feel really good - about being you.” It’s
our answer to Montrachet, be it Chassagne or Puligny.
The Heirlom Cameo is fermented in
a single, new, large format French oak barrel or “puncheon” each year. The goal
of this fermentation style is to enhance the breadth and depth of the wine
through limited oak exposure and extended yeast or “lees” aging.
Stylistically, this wine is made
to be enjoyed throughout its time in bottle. Upon release the wine is fresh
with pungent aromas and a broad mouth feel, followed by a crisp and satisfying
finish. We expect this wine to age gracefully for several years and will reward
a laddered approach to monitoring its development. Production is limited to 70
cases.
2012 Heirloom Cameo
This barrel-fermented,
estate-grown wine matches its luscious citrus and pineapple fruit to veins of
butter, caramel and toast. It’s perfectly balanced, lively and fresh, even
after being open for a full 24 hours. The style, now becoming particular to
many Oregon Chardonnays, sits squarely on the fence between the hyper-lushness
of California
and the minerality of northern Burgundies.
- Wine
Enthusiast, June 2015 - 92 points
The 2012 Chardonnay Heirloom
Cameo is whole-cluster pressed and fermented in 500-liter puncheons and
underwent partial malo before maturation in barrel without lees-stirring for 14
months. It has an attractive bouquet with citrus lemon, candied orange peel and
yellow flowers that is nicely defined and neatly integrated the oak. The palate
is medium-bodied with quite a rich and generous entry, waxy in texture with
touches of toffee apple and shaved almond on the finish. This is a very
well-crafted Chardonnay packed full of flavor. Only 70 cases produced.
- Wine Advocate,
March 2015 - 90 points
2011 Heirloom Cameo
The 2011 Chardonnay Heirloom
Cameo is the second vintage released, whole-cluster pressed and fermented in a
500-liter puncheon with batonnage. Unlike the 1012, this went through full
malolactic. It has a paler color than the 2012, but perhaps greater delineation
and precision on the nose with citrus peel, honeysuckle and juniper berries.
The palate is well defined with crisp acidity, touches of almond and toffee
apple, the leesy element coming through subtly on the persistent finish. Low
key now, but I bet you this ages with a little more panache than the more
outgoing 2012. We’ll see!
- Wine Advocate,
March 2015 - 91 points
2009 Heirloom Cameo
A flinty scent of seashells
enlivens golden delicious apple aromas in this lean, bequiling white. It has a
voluptuous texture, with juicy pear flavors supported by a clean mineral line.
That mineral foundation focuses it through long finish. For roast cod.
- Wine &
Spirits, October 2011 – 93 points, Year’s Best Chardonnay article
Lush and toasty, this
barrel-fermented Chardonnay offers an explosion of semi-tropical fruits that
coat the tongue without tiring the palate. Almost Rhône-like—it could pass for
a Roussanne in a blind tasting—it’s exotic and complex.
- Wine
Enthusiast, December 2011 - 92 points
Light straw color and clear in
the glass. Enticing aromas of white peaches, lemon curd, white pears and
buttery oak. Delicious and juicy array of white peach, Asian pear, baked apple
and pineapple flavors, honed with just the right amount of mineral-driven
acidity for brightness, and offering a silky mouth feel that excites the
senses. A classic, and maybe the best Oregon Chardonnay I have ever had. Exceptional
rating.
- PinotFile,
November 2011, Exceptional rating
The Heirloom Cameo may be the
best New World Chardonnay I have ever tasted!
- Dennis Sienko – Bend Wine Cellar, May 2011
A “Once in a Lifetime” Wine.
Pabuk’s Gift is our Late Harvest
Botrytized Chardonnay, a gift from Typhoon Pabuk which gifted us 9 inches of
rain in 4 days just before harvest. This wine was made from individually hand
sorted Chardonnay grapes naturally conquered by Botrytis in the same manner as
a German Trockenbeerenauslese (dried berries selection.) This wine may also be
applied topically and removed orally. Production is 52 cases (375 ml.)
2013 Pabuk’s Gift Late Harvest
Chardonnay
“Sometimes disasters have a happy
ending. Such is this wine, one of the GREATEST LATE-HARVEST WINES ever created
in the Pacific Northwest : the 2013 Amalie
Robert Estate Botrytis Chardonnay.
In 2013, everything was hunky
dory in Oregon
vineyards. The beautiful vintage was right on schedule until the massive
remnants of Typhoon Pabuk dumped 9 inches of rain on western Oregon over four
September days. After that sogfest, the weather dried out and Amalie Robert
winemaker Ernie Pink , a bit
dejected, walked his vineyards, discovering that the Noble Rot, Botrytis
cinerea, had infected his Chardonnay.
He and his wife, Dena Drews,
managed to salvage a mere 70 buckets of shriveled and affected grapes in late
October. It took them 3 days of hand picking the good mold from the bad --berry
by berry-- to get the juice for this extraordinary wine. The nectar measured
44% sugar, and the wine fermented to 10% alcohol. The resulting wine is easily
mistaken for a top-tier French Sauternes.
This honeyed gift is a fantastic
achievement and probably a once-in-a-lifetime wine. Or so they hope! And, it
is, to the best of my knowledge, the first late-harvest botrytis Chardonnay
ever produced in Oregon .
If anyone knows differently, Dena, Ernie, and I would sure love to know.”
- Ron Zimmerman, February 2015 - The Herbfarm,
AAA 5-Diamond, Seattle , WA
The 2013 Pabuk’s Gift is the
result of the namesake typhoon after it wiped out the Chardonnay vines. There
were 70 buckets of berries that were pressed over a day, then fermented up to
10.2% alcohol and stopped with dry ice. The bouquet is clean and pure with
clear honey, quince jus, marmalade and just a touch of wax resin. The palate is
medium-bodied with racy acidity cutting through the mellifluous honeyed fruit
and it works because it is not overpowering or cloying on the finish, but
glides across the mouth. Perhaps it should be renamed Pabuk’s silver lining?
- Wine Advocate,
March 2015 - 91 points
