Amalie Robert Estate Culinary Inclinations Series Part IV: Rhône Inspires with Black Cod Palmiers and Rack of Spring Lamb

Hello and Welcome, 

 

It’s spring lamb season somewhere. And thanks to the invention of vacuum packaging and cold chain logistics, it can be spring lamb season, right here, right now! This is the fourth segment in our Culinary Inclinations Series: Rhône Inspires with Black Cod Palmiers and Rack of Spring Lamb. A FLOG communication (Farming bLOG) from Dena & Ernie @AmalieRobert Estate. Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir. 

 

Here in the Northern Hemisphere, the lower 48 in particular, we have just had an election. And pretty soon they are going to tell us who won. Not all of the races everywhere of course, but most of them. Enough to get an idea of what the next couple of years might look like. The judiciary is engaged as is “de rigueur” and the electorate is warming up for January 5^th. If you live in Georgia, you don’t need us to tell you that the circus has come to town. They are all there, with lawyers in tow.

 

We are blessed to have the Christmas holiday during the winter solstice. Not so for the folks Down Under. “Chrissy” as it is known, arrives with a sleigh full of gifts in the middle of the summer. It’s shrimps on the barbie and a pint of lager!

 

To celebrate the holidays, some choose to bring the great outdoors indoors. This often takes the form of a fir, pine or spruce tree. And depending on where said tree is in its lifecycle, it could be a beautifully adorned festive tree with lights and ornaments, or a more practical yuletide log. Either way, it is nice to curl up next to your implementation of the holiday tree with a glass of wine and a nice book or FLOG post as the case may be today.

 

He who travels fastest, travels alone. And that is how Santa gets everything delivered in one night. Of course, he has several time zones strategically mapped out and works both sides of the equator at the same time. By now, you would have to believe Rudolph has the route down cold. You can even track him on Google while they track you! And check out all of the cool games.

This would seem to be the perfect segue to delve into Viognier. That beautifully textured, heady white wine from the Northern Rhône Valley that Ernie grows right here in block 12, all 297 vines worth. Block 12, as you might imagine is planted east of, and adjacent to, the Syrah block, which is lucky block 13.

 

All told this is 1,485 vines, about 1.02 acres worth of Northern Rhône inspired viticulture. These vines are surrounded by the most coveted Wadenswil clone Pinot Noir to the north in block 21 and to the east in block 10. Covering the southern flank is Dijon clone 115 and looking to the west, it is Pommard clone that provides cover from the late afternoon sun.

 

But that was not the original plan. Ernie had those vines penciled in “way the hell and gone” on the other side of the field. Fortunately, and just before it was mostly too late, Dick Erath showed Ernie the error in this thinking.

 

We didn’t have to dig up that many vines, but that is how you “move” a vineyard block. Once that chore was completed, Ernie promptly invested in a new thinking cap. Dena picked it out. It has a nice pattern but not too flashy. It fits pretty snug and has a side binder to lock it in place. That’s just in case it were to slip off as we approach a critical decision point. Farming thinking caps are different. They just are…

 

In the winery, we abbreviate Our Muse Viognier as VIOGxx where the xx reflects the vintage. So for the latest release of Viognier we have VIOG19. This is not to be confused with the COVID19 vaccine that just is being released nationwide. However, we do share the same shipping lanes, and they are about to get really busy. So if you are thinking about holiday gift giving, it’s time for you to get busy. Or your gift giving options could be less than optimal.

 

VIOG19 and smoked black cod palmiers. Our interpretation of this culinary inclination is a savory. We consider a puff pastry to be the perfect delivery vehicle for exquisite smoked black cod and herbed goat cheese.

 

This is a sheet of thawed puff pastry shmeared with herbed goat cheese and then topped with smoked black cod. Alternatively, you could use lox style smoked salmon on one side. You then roll the opposing sides to the center, much like an ancient scroll. A quick brush of egg wash, slice them about 3/8” of an inch thick, then a run through the oven with a fresh sprig of rosemary at the very end, and out they come just as pretty as you please.

 

And you can accessorize! A creamy cucumber dill sauce served chilled adds sophistication from the “afternoon high tea” theme. Pesto is a classic accoutrement, however we are not so keen on pine nuts. Our interpretation of this classic substitutes almonds, and we add sun dried tomatoes including a little of the olive oil to the mix. And then there is aioli, lots and lots of ways to go and none of them are wrong. To round out the colors we suggest a roasted red pepper and garlic aioli. Yes, that should do it, very nice indeed!

 

A note on serving Viognier. We often find Viogner to have a very narrow serving temperature range. Slightly cooler than Pinot Noir, but not so cool as to lose the scintillating aromas that only Viognier can provide. We suggest starting off cool and letting the wine warm in your glass until you achieve maximum olfactory and frontal lobe satisfaction. You will know it when you find it. “Oh, did I say that out loud?” Yeah, that happens…

 

As your guests are polishing off the palmier plate, quite literally, and have found your last stashed bottle of Our Muse Viognier, it is time to move onto the main course. Lamb rack, or crown roast of lamb for a much more stunning presentation, and Satisfaction Syrah. Often times dressing can be made and cooked separately or in the middle of the roast. We prefer cooking any dressing separately, to ensure the correct temperatures of both dishes are achieved at the proper time. Otherwise, one is left cold, waiting for the other to finish.

One of your first decisions in approaching this culinary inclination is whether to decant the wine, and if so when to do it? Whether you are contemplating our Satisfaction or Top Barrel Syrah, we encourage decanting this wine before serving. And more importantly, here is why.

 

Wine decanting and whole cluster fermentation. The decision to decant a wine is really all about exposing the wine to air to allow it to evolve into a more enjoyable experience. In most dining situations, air is defined as 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen and 1% of the stuff that is most likely going to get us all. Let’s concern ourselves with the 21%.

 

During the winemaking process, we limit the amount of air exposure in our wines. Once fermentation is complete, the wines have a high concentration of carbon dioxide. This is a preservative, and over time this will dissipate. Sulfur dioxide is also a preservative that will dissipate over time and is added to the wine as it matures in barrel. And we do not transfer or rack our wines from barrel to barrel. In the case of our Syrah, once the barrels are filled, that is their home for the next two and half years until we gently transfer the wine to tank and use gravity to bottle – no pumping.

 

That means your bottle of Amalie Robert Syrah has had very little air exposure. In fact, the only air exposure would have come through that wee little piece of tree bark we use as the cork. And that is by design, we use natural corks precisely because we want that air exchange. While each cork is unique in its air exchange properties, we do know that some oxygen is getting through the cork and interacting with the wine. As air interacts with the wine, its first target is tannin. Oxygen degrades (softens) tannin.

 

Here is where it gets interesting. Whole cluster fermentations add tannins to the wines from the stems. Stem tannin is different from skin tannin and that’s the only way to get stem tannin - from the stems. And we ferment Syrah with whole clusters. A whole lot of whole clusters, about half the fruit in the fermenter is still attached to the stem. Add about five to seven years in the bottle and that little bit of air that has been slowly softening those stem tannins, has evolved them into spice and texture and length of finish. No other winemaking technique can provide such pleasure, but you have to wait for it to happen in the bottle.

 

So we say: Hell yes, decant that wine! But do it gently. We recommend sitting the bottle upright for at least 24 hours in a slightly cool area. Pour the wine from the bottle down the side of the decanter trying not to splash the wine. Toward the end of the pour look down through the neck of the bottle for sediment and stop pouring if it becomes excessive. It is harmless, but will make the wine appear cloudy in your glass.

 

Now you must wait, or plan ahead and decant so the wine is ready when the crown roast and dressing are ready. A good place to start is about an hour before serving time. You can stopper the decanter or use cling wrap to close off the top. There is plenty of air in the decanter to achieve the desired result. They design them that way. Of course, periodic sampling is in order. Be diligent as time permits.

 

By now your lamb should be making its way to the carving station. If it is an herb encrusted rack of lamb, it should be looking something like this.

 

Roast winter squash, garlic braised broccolini and sautéed Chanterelle or Morel mushrooms are at the ready. The cheese course should be out of the refrigerator and prepared for service.

 

Internal temperature is another point of contention among diners. When is it done? How much is too much? What if it is still moving? Here is a handy visual aid to give you a guide to internal temperatures. While this is handy to look at, it is the texture of the meat that is most affected by temperature. That and let the roast set on the carvery for at least 5-10 minutes before carving.

 

Final Note: We have taken up the practice of washing the dishes and rinsing the stemware the night of, and then washing the stemware the following morning. We find we get more uses from the stemware this way. 

Kindest Regards,

Dena & Ernie

Amalie Robert Estate: iPinot Holiday Gift Giving!

iPinot Holiday Gift Giving! This is a FLOG communication (Farming bLOG) from Dena & Ernie @AmalieRobert Estate. Oregon Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. 

  

The time is drawing near, it’s practically here! Monday, December 21^st is the shortest day of the year! Somewhat of a misnomer really, this day has the same number of hours as any other day, it just has the fewest daylight hours when experienced in the Northern Hemisphere. It’s the winter solstice from the Oregon point of view. On a related note, how many months have 28 days?

 

And do we have a gift giving idea for you: Wine! For the deserved on your wine gift giving list (including YOU the gift giver), we are offering iPinot Holiday Gift Giving shipments. Each bottle in your Holiday Gift shipment comes individually wrapped in our French Vanilla colored tissue paper and includes a handwritten Amalie Robert holiday card with your gift message.

 

All iPinot Holiday Gift packages include domestic ground shipping. Have a look at your naughty and nice list and match your gifts to our available vintages from the last of the cool vintages 2011, the sublime 2012, the elegant 2013, the stunning 2014 and the opulent 2015. To ensure timely delivery, order today - don’t delay!

 

Our iPinot Holiday Gift Giving options are shown below with domestic ground shipping in the continental US included. Please contact Dena at Cuvee@AmalieRobert.com for shipping options to Alaska and Hawaii. Multi-bottle shipments can include a selection of vintages (mix or match), and due to shipping logistics reflect the best value. The greater the gift, the bigger the package as we can see here.

 

Single bottle $50

Double shot $75

The 6 pack $175

Full Monty case $300

 

One click of the Big Blue Button and you are on your way to Holiday Gift Giving Bliss! Alternatively, we are available by appointment for pickup service at the winery.

 

 

Dena will apply your discount upon order confirmation and schedule a shipping window. If you would like any suggestions or assistance with your order, please contact Dena by email at Cuvee@AmalieRobert.com or by phone at 503.88.CUVEE (28833).

 

Kindest Regards,

Dena & Ernie

Amalie Robert Estate Culinary Inclinations Series Part III: Roasted Whole Duck and Pinot Noir

Hello and Welcome, 

  

This is the third segment in our Culinary Inclinations Series: Roasted Whole Duck and Pinot Noir. A FLOG communication (Farming bLOG) from Dena & Ernie @AmalieRobert Estate. Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir. If you are anxiously awaiting the “Syrah and Lamb Love Chops” segment, it won’t be much longer. 

 

Before we begin, we would like to wish everyone a very Happy Thanksgiving! The year 2020 has shown itself to be a very “interesting” year, and yet there is so much to be thankful for. Sometimes it is hard to see the vines through the dense fog that covers the vineyard. But we know that they are there, lying in wait ready to spring forth in vintage 2021 with a full arsenal of agrarian vagaries.

 

We are very much looking forward to a new year - a new growing season, and we hope you too are excited about the new opportunities that await us all. Or said another way, the unforeseen challenges we will most assuredly be forced to endure. Two sides of the same coin, it just comes down to your perspective. As farmers, we are always mindful that if anything can go wrong, it will, at the most inopportune time causing the most amount of trouble and expense. And yes, it is true, Murphy was a farming optimist.

 

For at least the next few minutes, we know what you will be doing. We don’t know where you will be doing it - Google has that covered. We appreciate you sharing some eyeball time with us. Kind of like looking into a window, us from this side and you from that side.

 

 

The holidays are upon us! We begin with Thanksgiving which is conveniently scheduled on the fourth Thursday of November. But it wasn’t always that way. You can read the full story at the National Archives. Or just follow along with the cliff notes here:

 

It all started back in the summer of ‘89 when the Federal Congress passed a resolution asking that the President of the United States recommend to the nation a day of thanksgiving. George Washington then proclaimed Thursday, November 26, 1789 as a "Day of Publick Thanksgivin". It wasn't until President Abraham Lincoln's 1863 Proclamation that Thanksgiving was regularly commemorated each year on the last Thursday of November.

 

In 1939, however, the last Thursday in November fell on the last day of the month. Concerned that the shortened Christmas shopping season might dampen the economic recovery, President Franklin D. Roosevelt issued a Presidential Proclamation moving Thanksgiving to the second to last Thursday of November. As a result of the proclamation, 32 states issued similar proclamations while 16 states refused to accept the change and proclaimed Thanksgiving to be the last Thursday in November. Dysfunction, it seems, was an inherent “feature” in our young republic and continues unabated to this very day.

 

Fixed it for you: To end the confusion, Congress decided to set a fixed-date for the holiday. On October 6, 1941, the House passed a joint resolution declaring the last Thursday in November to be the legal Thanksgiving Day. The Senate, however, amended the resolution establishing the holiday as the fourth Thursday, which would take into account those years when November has five Thursdays. The House agreed to the amendment, and President Roosevelt signed the resolution on December 26, 1941, thus establishing the fourth Thursday in November as the Federal Thanksgiving Day holiday. And if it works, stop fixing it.

 

Note that the very first government mandated Thanksgiving was on the 26^th day of the month, just like this year. And similar to this year, the 1775–1782 North American smallpox epidemic was most likely still imparting a sense of caution. That was 7 years’ worth, and we are just now rounding the corner on our first year. Social distancing, quarantines and masks were tried then as now, the significant difference being in the quality of the masks. For our post-modern pandemic, we have both red wine AND white wine masks. The rosé mask is an easy farming work around.

 

 

 

So, there it is. Now lets’ get to the bird! Thanksgiving is a uniquely American holiday. And while there are just a handful of countries that do celebrate their own interpretations of Thanksgiving, EVERYBODY is on the Black Friday sales!

 

Ben Franklin, it is rumored, had originally wanted the Turkey to be the national symbol. He was “cancelled”, and the Bald Eagle became our national symbol. But in that defeat, there was a Thanksgiving victory. No one would have feasted upon the national bird at Thanksgiving.

 

Now there are all kinds of birds in our great land that can be the centerpiece of our Thanksgiving Day celebration. Let’s break them down into upland game birds and waterfowl. Upland game birds can be as small as Bobwhite quail weighing in at about 6 ounces. They get their name from their distinct call, which you can hear here.

 

Then we have partridge, guineafowl, all manner of grouse including the Ptarmigan, several variants of pheasant, and the varied species of turkey. There are several heritage breeds to choose from including the Auburn, Buff, Black, Bourbon Red, Narragansett, Royal Palm, Slate, Standard Bronze, and Midget White. Heritage turkeys represent about 25,000 birds raised each year, where there are close to 200 MILLION industry raised Broad-Breasted turkey. Check your local (or UPS serviced) terroir for availability.

 

There are about 7 million wild turkeys roaming our United States each year. Turkeys are not native to Oregon, but two species, the Merriam and Rio Grande were introduced in the 1960’s. And yes they can fly, in fact they roost in trees to avoid the ground based predators that are looking for their own Thanksgiving feast.

 

And we get them in the vineyard from time to time. They are tall enough to pluck off a wine berry or two. As you can see the turkey on the right has not had any Pinot Noir, but the turkey on the left has had quite enough to boldly display his full mating plumage! It’s the same old story, just a different species… And she is having none of it.

When it comes to fowl, and we mean waterfowl, the White Pekin duck reigns supreme for a Thanksgiving celebration. But there are also the Moulard and Muscovy farm raised ducks. A goose is another option, however it is more attuned to the Christmas holiday.

 

The origins of the phrase “You are full of it” is in fact attributed to the Christmas goose. Dressing is a dried bread-based concoction that includes all manner of vegetables, spices and quite often an egg or two to bind everything together. This mixture is then placed into a baking dish and put into a 350 degree oven for about an hour. When this mixture is stuffed into the cavity of a bird, such as a goose, it is known as stuffing. The full, olde English phrase is “You are as full of $#it as a Christmas goose!”

 

Penguinos range from the wee little Fairly Penguins of Australia and New Zealand that may grow to reach 12 inches tall to the imposing Emperor Penguins of Antarctica who tower at 4 feet or more. They are flightless water birds that are always dapper and dashing, however not included in the following preparatory guidelines. And then there is Opus T. Penguin…

 

 

Once you have decided upon the appropriate fowl for your Thanksgiving Day celebration, the next task before you is acquisition. There are several avenues available including instore shopping, curbside pick-up, UPS shipping and the tried and mostly true, full immersion duck hunting experience.

 

Unlike fishing, duck hunting is a serious endeavor that may, or may not yield results. Wild ducks are typically harvested when they are in flight. Not so different from fishing, as fish are usually harvested when swimming in the water. Same theory, just a different medium. The duck hunter's job is to encourage any given duck to land upon the Earth, or in a waterway that may or may not be frozen over. This requires the duck hunter to co-locate at least somewhat close to the in-flight duck, while fully enjoying all of the inclement wind, rain, snow, sleet and potentially freezing temperatures. Nice day today, not too hot…

 

There are several ways a duck hunter may encourage a flock of ducks to interrupt their migratory prerogative to land. Food is always a good encouragement as is an open waterway when their feet begin to freeze. Note: it is not uncommon for a duck hunter to lose feeling in their toes and fingertips. Duck calls are another inducement to land, especially if there are decoys in the near vicinity. Hey, is that a corn field? It looks like a party!

 

When these methods fail, there is the old school fallback of an ounce and a quarter of number 5 pellets with a muzzle velocity of approximately 1,350 feet per second. This form of encouragement can result in a single member of the flock to lose altitude rather suddenly. This is when the savvy duck hunter has a well-trained dog or has invited along a fellow sportsman with a well-trained dog. The lesson here is do not go duck hunting without a proper duck retrieval strategy. Or maybe you find a mid-November swim to be just a prelude to the annual Polar Bear plunge… And then there is the gestalt of ice fishing, but that is a misery best left for another time.

 

The other, more sane acquisition method involves the internet and an online visit to the Maple Leaf Farms website where you can arrange for your freshly harvested duck to land on your doorstep pre-plucked, disemboweled and ready to go. That maneuver just bought you enough time to enjoy a glass of wine by the crackling fire. A nice WARM crackling fire with the dog curled up at your feet. Toasty!

 

 

Culinary Inclination Series III: Roasted Whole Duck and Pinot Noir.

 

Are you a home chef, an involuntarily semi-retired chef or a chef waiting to re-open your restaurant? Not to worry, this easy step by step preparation and a little Pinot Noir will see you through in full plumage!

 

Prepare your roasting rack and preheat the oven: Line the bottom of the roasting pan with aluminum foil. Do not put foil over the top of the roasting rack as it will fill with very hot duck fat. This is a temporary or “fluid” situation, as liquified duck fat is subject to the laws of gravity and will, in short order, be on the floor. Or you, whichever it encounters first.

 

Besides, you are going to want to “harvest” that duck fat so you can scramble up some eggs for breakfast. Duck fat was Julia Child’s secret ingredient for all things savory. Sauté with olive oil during the week but live a little on the weekends and use duck fat.

 

Set the upper oven rack so that the duck when placed breastbone up will be below the upper element by about 2 to 3 inches. Preheat oven to 350 and sample the Pinot Noir to ensure proper temperature. For this portion of the preparation, a suitable Pinot in Pink Rosé or Heirloom Cameo BFC (Barrel Fermented Chardonnay) may be substituted with no loss of etiquette.

 

Note: The first step in this process will be to crisp the skin. This step will produce some smoke. We usually have a few windows open in the kitchen to keep us vented and eat in the dining room. Or, if wildfires are still raging in your area, you may not notice the smoke. Either way, you cannot make an omelet without breaking a few eggs. Nice shoes, by the way.

 

Preparing your duck and proofing the Pinot Noir: Remove the whole duck from its store (or natural) packaging as the case may be. Empty the body cavity and rinse thoroughly. If you plan to fill this cavity with stuffing, then a visual inspection is in order. Take a moment now to swirl your stem gently, but deliberately to observe how the wine catches the afternoon sunlight. Nice day today, not too hot...

 

Place the duck on a solid surface or cutting board, again breastbone up. Using a medium length, straight blade, score the skin on each side of the breast. Begin at the center of the breastbone and score diagonally upward toward the wing. Repeat with a parallel cut every 1 inch or so. Perform the same procedure on the other side. Be careful to not cut too deeply into the meat under the skin. Clip off the wing tips at the first joint.

 

The thighs are the fattiest portion of the duck and you will also score those. Turn the duck on its side and score vertically through the fatty portion of the thigh where it meets the back with 2 or 3 cuts. Again, do not cut so deeply that you cut into the meat. Repeat on the other side.

 

Finally, cut the skin and tendons at the end of the leg joint in a circular fashion. This will allow the skin and meat to rise up the leg bone toward the thigh and remain moist. This completes the knife skill portion of the preparation. Perform a standard finger count. The count should be 10, and if the count is in fact 10, then well done, it is time for a congratulatory sip!

 

Roasting with a convection oven: Place your scored duck on the roasting rack breastbone up. Spritz or brush with a light coating of sesame oil and season the scored breast with Hungarian paprika, Chinese 5 spice and finely cracked black pepper. Black sesame seeds are also an interesting textural addition.

 

Place the duck on the prepositioned upper-most rack in the preheated oven. Set the oven to BROIL and let this cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Put down the Pinot and keep an eye on things here as you will have duck fat and high heat in very close proximity.

 

The objective is to render the fat from the duck skin. This usually results in a deep golden-brown hue on the breast, but if you feel it is too much, take it out sooner. Remember there is a profound difference between a little char and burnt. Verify the remaining Pinot Noir bouquet is commensurate with the Duck. Secure a second bottle if necessary.

 

After you have crisped the skin to your satisfaction, remove the roasting rack from the oven and place it on a heat resistant surface. BE CAREFUL as the roasting pan will now have enough hot duck fat in it to give you a first hand impression of entering a medieval castle uninvited.

 

Set the oven to Convection Roast at 350 and move the rack to the center of the oven. Using appropriate tongs, turn the duck over so that the breastbone is now facing down and return the roasting rack to the oven. Toast your accomplishment with a sip of Pinot Noir, even if you must open that second bottle to do so.

 

Roast for about 45 minutes. The leg joint should move fairly freely when done. Remember that the breast meat is at its best medium to medium rare. Hmm, this second bottle is quite lovely. Ah, it is from the 2010 vintage, of course!

 

For the last 5 minutes of roasting, turn the duck once more so that the breastbone is facing upward. This will allow the fat to drain from the scored skin. Prepare your carvery area with the following tools: A large cutting board with a recessed fat drain, duck pliers (aka poultry shears), a very sharp boning knife and a hand towel. This will be your last chance for a sip of Pinot Noir for a little while, so make the most of it.

 

Presentation: Remove the duck from the oven and place it on the cutting board. Let stand, or sit, for about 5 (or maybe 10) minutes to allow the juices to cool. Keep an eye on the dog, retrieval skills are a natural instinct, and he has picked up the scent. Before the dismemberment begins, this is YOUR chance to shine. The kitchen is full of the most wonderful aromas of roast duck, sizzling duck fat and Pinot Noir. Your guests pass the carvery station and adorn you with accolades. With this high praise rolling in, now is NOT the time to run out of Pinot Noir.

 

Carving is the art of separating the meat from the supporting structure, known as the carcass. Legs and thighs are typically richer in texture. The breast meat, sliced thinly, glistens. Duck wing lollipops are the “Scooby-Doo snacks” that never seem to make it out of the kitchen. When everything is plated up, it is time to “Get the Duck Outta here!”

 

Duck is a very rich meat, so we enjoy a slightly bitter green vegetable such as garlic braised broccolini or Brussels sprouts in duck fat. Winter squash will pair with the sweetness of the meat. Of course, sautéed wild chanterelle or morel mushrooms are obligatory. The cheese course varies widely, however we recommend Fourme d’Ambert with whatever Pinot Noir is left after the meal, whether it IS open or IS YET TO BE open!

Please contact Dena by email at Cuvee@AmalieRobert.com or by phone at 503.88.CUVEE (28833) for pricing and availability of Amalie Robert Pinot Noirs, Heirloom Cameo Chardonnay and Pinot in Pink Rosé.

Happy Thanksgiving,

 

Dena & Ernie

Amalie Robert Update: 2019 Pinot Meunier Release!

Hello and Welcome, 

 
This is an Amalie Robert Estate Trade Update: 2019 Pinot Meunier Release! A FLOG communication (Farming bLOG) from Dena & Ernie @AmalieRobert Estate. Oregon Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. 
 

We like to release Pinot Meunier just before the holidays. There is not a more festive, entertaining and food friendly wine than Pinot Meunier. It goes with EVERYTHING! Have a glass and a little pâté waiting for Santa this year, and just see what you find under the tree Christmas morning! We are sure you will not be disappointed, and you may even make up some points from last year’s gag of beer and doughnuts. Even though the maple bars were a nice touch… They really didn't agree with the dog.

Tasting Notes: Jolly Rancher cherry red. Translucent transcends to scents of Christmas past, dark chocolate covered cherries, freshly grated cinnamon stick and a waft of allspice from a still cooling pumpkin pie. Elegant and lithe, playful on the palate with intention and discipline providing virtuous restraint. That’s as far as I go. And just as pretty as the day is long. Unfined, Unfiltered and Unrepentant.
 
Culinary Inclinations: Roasted steelhead steaks seasoned with savory, thyme, white pepper, smoked paprika and a dusting of ground ginger alongside steamed artichoke hearts with fresh dill aioli and herbed red potatoes sautéed in duck fat. And then, a little chèvre with raspberry preserves.


 
But this year is a bittersweet release. The 2019 vintage saw a light fruit set which directly impacts wine production. We typically ferment and bottle about 100 cases of Pinot Meunier each vintage. In 2019, we produced just under 70 cases. But wait, it gets worse. There will be no 2020 vintage Pinot Meunier. Or any other 2020 vintage wines from Amalie Robert.
 
Just last week we got word from Gordon Burns, Technical Director at ETS Laboratories. While it was nice of him to write, he was not bearing good news. Our smoke taint theories have just been confirmed. Kind of like the last election, most folks have a pretty good idea how things are going to end up, it just has yet to be confirmed.
 
Many October winery visitors took advantage of tasting our fermenting 2020 vintage Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Meunier. That is all we harvested as we knew vintage 2020 was a forgone conclusion. Some tasters said yes, I get a little hit of smoke, others did not and some were not sure. What was consistent across all tasters was that something was askew. (Google “askew” and see what that page looks like. That’s the hi-tech guys and gals, having you on.)
 


And Gordon was kind enough to put together this handy dandy interpretative chart. Free Guaiacol is the compound he tests for and we’ve got it. The first graphic is for wine berries. The second graphic is for fermented wine. As you can clearly see that the graphic stops at 6. Our result came back at 8. We smoked that test! While we are not speaking for anyone else in the Willamette, Ernie can frequently be heard saying Damnit!
 
So, what does that mean for you? If you are currently working with, or leaning toward adding, the Pinot Meunier, you may want to consider stocking up. It is going to be a long, dry spell before we see any 2021 Amalie Robert Pinot Meunier.
   

Kindest Regards,
 
Dena & Ernie

Amalie Robert Estate Culinary Inclinations Series Part II: Cowboy Pepper

Hello and Welcome, 

  

This is an Amalie Robert Estate Culinary Inclinations Series Part II: Cowboy Pepper. A FLOG communication (Farming bLOG) from Dena & Ernie @AmalieRobert Estate. Oregon Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. 

 

 

For the second of our Culinary Inclinations Series, we recognize that many people are not comfortable with indoor seating at their beloved eating establishments. Assuming these eating establishments are still established. A large segment of our business was conducted in restaurants through what is known as “on-premise” sales. If you happen to be associated with the restaurant business from the front of the house to the back of the kitchen, servers or wine professionals – we feel your pain. It is our pain too.

 

We remember the life of our nation’s intellectual inquisitor, Alex Trebeck. He was a native son of Ontario, Canada, and we gladly welcomed him into our homes for 37 years. In the lower 48, we learned to never answer a question with a question. However, in fond memory we will respond, “What is Cowboy Pepper for a thousand, Alex? It’s a Daily Double!”

 

 

We thought it might be interesting to explore the alternatives to what was heretofore known as on-premise dining. It may be that some of you have shared these experiences in your youth, and that may be why you prefer the traditional concept of dining out. So until it is time to venture out and gather together, please sit back with a glass of Rosé and tongue firmly in cheek, as we voyeuristically explore an alternative form of dining out.

 

Spending formative years in Montana instills certain life skills that become handy later in life. For example, always fill up your VEE-hycle when you get down to half a tank, as fuel, or your access to it, may be unpredictable during the 9 winter months of the year. Safely enjoying outdoor recreation such as camping, fishing and the skill of navigating a huckleberry patch ahead of the dog while always keeping a keen watch out for bears. You know when the dog has gotten ahead of you because the bushes have half eaten huckleberries and are covered in dog slobber. On the other hand, who would deprive this beloved animal such unbridled happiness?!

 

And then there is the communal satisfaction of cooking over the campfire. This can be with a willow switch that you collect after catching a few prized brook trout. The best fishing, of course, is right at dusk. The hatch is on with all manner of insects that sustain the state’s abundant fisheries. You have to fish where the fish are, and the fish are where the bugs are. And then it is dark and it is time to head back to the campsite. In the dark.

 

Once the batteries in the flashlight are depleted, your VEE-hycle’s headlights may shine a light onto the campsite, or near enough to it that you can work toward your goal of getting fed. The forethought of digging a fire pit and lining it with rocks has paid off. So has putting a tarp over the drift wood and kindling that was collected earlier in the day. And whoever left an emergency pack of matches in the truck, under the floor mats all those years ago, was an absolute GENIUS!

 

After a few hopeful, but failed attempts at igniting the heat source to prepare the evening meal, it is time for the Scout water. A splash here and a dash there and it is time for the next attempt. A strike of the match and a hit of sulfur bring the flame to life. A well-placed toss into the carefully constructed kindling, while lingering just long enough to see it catch fire, and then run like hell! The smell of singed hair fades away, but it takes a while to grow your eyebrows back.

 

As the campfire crackles to life everyone takes a moment to bask in the glow and aroma of triumph over the elements. Interacting with Mother Nature’s environment, as it were. A team effort that everyone contributes to (although not everyone contributes in a positive way) enables a celebration of individual achievements and intellectual superiority over the piscine. When it comes to survival in the forest, luck and skill are much more than casual acquaintances.

 

While most everyone likes to fish, not everyone likes to clean, cook and eat fish. This is the difference between fishing and catching. So be it, there are burgers and bratwurst aplenty. But since it is dark and the only light source is from the glowing embers, there seems to be some confusion as to how exactly to proceed. Chaos has not set in yet, but it is not far off either.

 

If you drop your burger onto the ground before you cook it, there is a better chance that whatever has stuck to it will be “just fine.” This bit of added seasoning is called Cowboy Pepper. Cowboy Pepper also provides a very real sense of terroir. Not all campsites are the same. Depending on where you are camping and the time of year, the forest floor may impart significant aroma, flavor and texture to your meal. Bear in mind, you are not the only visitor to this campsite. The local fauna have been there frequently cleaning up after whomever was there before. From chipmunks and squirrels to birds and raccoons, they have been crawling all over the place, leaving their mark.

 

The dilemma occurs when you drop your perfectly flame grilled burger on the way to your plate. If you happen to have lost it inside the fire ring, well that is “not so bad” as most everything in there has been sterilized by the heat. You simply need to get it out of there and onto your plate, and maintain your eyebrows, if possible.

 

Dropping your dinner on one of the fire pit rocks is actually “pretty good” as hot rocks have been used by some cultures as cooking stones for centuries. Retrieval here is certainly much simpler than from inside the fire ring. Of the three possible peril scenarios of retrieving your cooked burger, this is the one that minimizes the added terroir to your meal. The third scenario, dropping your cooked burger outside the fire ring, brings to bear the combined forces of gravity and the dog.  

 

Hot dogs, frankfurters and bratwurst present a unique challenge. The willow switch seems to fit in the end and go to the front, much like the way to secure a fish. Hovering just above the flames and rotating slowly creates a little char and a nice patina suggesting an expert campfire griller. Knowing the precise moment to withdraw your bounty prevents char from becoming burnt. However, the pressure inside the casing can increase rapidly causing them to split rather suddenly. This lack of tension within the casing allows the meat to separate from the stick. Once again, gravity is there to direct your dinner directly into the fire. If you are lucky enough to retrieve your dinner, an oversized bun will help mask some of the terroir you have amassed. Like some other sandwich we will not name, the more bread there is, the better, but it is never going to be good.

 

What is more exuberant than an 8-month-old, 65 pound Labrador Retriever “puppy” going from camper to camper nuzzling and nudging for a bit of whatever it is that you are having? Of course, his dish and kibbles are located near the fire, but left untouched. Each conquest is immediately wolfed down and then it is off to the next camper. The size of the victory is commensurate with the vigor displayed in the wagging tail. Suddenly like a World Series slugger, there goes your plate taking flight across the campsite. The race is on but at 4 legs to 2, you never really had a chance… A well trained dog will at least fetch you a beer from the cooler. Beer run!

 

Once everyone has had an opportunity at cooking their dinner on the campfire it is time to sit back, relax and enjoy your meal. Except for that knot you did not notice on the log that is creating quite a cramp in your right butt cheek. And where the hell did all these ants come from. Maybe from under the log that is being rocked back and forth. If someone is rocking your world, best go see what the fuss is all about. Depending on your terroir these could be your everyday ants, or maybe they are army ants or fire ants. Time to shake a leg.

 

The “no-see-ums” have now arrived and are circling in the warmth of the fire. This just also happens to be the zone you are inhabiting. Each of you interacting with the other’s environment. The ants have now breached the cuff of your hunting socks* and are destined for your nether regions. This causes the plate that is positioned on your lap to tilt to and from in a rather herky-jerky motion. This is simply too much for the ear of corn to handle and it slips off your plate onto the terroir. As is the case with most campsites, the terroir has a certain slope to it. And it usually slopes away from you. Gravity once again lends a hand.

 

* Hunting socks are just that. They are two socks that look nothing like each other. You are wearing them because it was too dark to see if they matched. Your hunting is comprised of finding another pair of mismatched socks that exactly match the mismatched pair you are wearing. Kind of like mahjong in the outdoors idiom.

 

 

Now corn comes in a variety of formats. There is the golden yellow, or pearl white or a variegated blend of the two. And an ear of corn is uniquely and ideally suited to collect as much terroir as it possibly can in between and betwixt each and every kernel. If only the moon were a little brighter, you could actually see what is making it so crunchy now.

 

It’s not really a full campfire experience without the marshmallows. Your willow switch from earlier in the evening can serve a dual purpose here after you clean off the remnants of the fish course. While marshmallows appear to be quite innocuous and harmless, they take on a different identity in the wild. First of all, they can go from a perfectly golden brown patina to exploding sugary confection in just under 3 nanoseconds. Even if you do manage to perfectly toast your marshmallow, avoiding all of the perils and pitfalls associated with this activity, you have to get it off the stick and onto your salivating palate before gravity takes a hand and deposits it onto the terroir. Retrieval in this scenario can only be attempted outside the fire ring. And the ooze of warm marshmallow is the perfect foil for all things soil.

 

Douse the fire and it’s time to snug into your sleeping bag. The no-see-ums have remained at the campfire savoring their last meal (you). Your itching and scratching begins at first light, if you’re lucky.

 

As much fun as all of this sounds, please remember Cowboy Pepper is nothing new. It goes back to the days when cowboys lived off the land and packing gourmet spices was not something tolerated, or even discovered. A big pot of beans, a stray varmint and burnt coffee was most likely as fancy as that was going to get. A bit of the forest floor or prairie landscape was a welcome “joie de vivre” back in the day.

 

Have a look around your pantry and spice rack. If you have, or have recently adopted, a flair (or basic survival need) for cooking then you most likely have more than granulated white salt and ground black pepper on hand. These are the makings for your own, individual, Cowboy Pepper (CP).

 

While many meats, poultry, upland game birds, waterfowl, fish and vegetables can benefit from a pinch of this and a bit of that, we are going to approach the fine art of CP from the more visual aspect. Most people would agree that, with the exception of eating around the campfire at night, they eat with their eyes. And that is how we shall proceed, from the visual perspective as we enjoy the fall foliage.

 

 

Let’s start off with one of the more basic CPs and that is a mix of dried Italian herbs. Something along the lines of Marjoram, Thyme, Rosemary, Savory, Sage, Oregano and Basil. Sprinkle this on a whole chicken and you have suddenly created the terroir akin to a summer cookout in a forest complete with pine needles and a bit of moss. As most of the country has forested areas, this is a very safe CP to start out with. Add some fresh ground black pepper for that left-over campfire charcoal look. Having trouble sticking it to the chicken? A little olive oil drizzle is the proper remedy.

 

A fresh fillet of salmon or halibut is the perfect canvas for this next CP. A little fresh dill weed says you are camping near a stream with all manner of flora from fiddlehead ferns to horseweed and maybe a little poison sumac. Paprika is a ground spice that can add a perfect patina to any fish, without overpowering. For more intensity you can move up the scale to smoked paprika or cayenne pepper which will move your terroir closer to red volcanic soils quite near an active volcano.

 

Now let’s say you are in an area with a lot of crumbled rock. This is a perfect environment for chipmunks and pika to hide. A fresh venison or pork loin rolled in black sesame seeds says you have found their den! Add a little ground ginger and this shows off the mica found on the rocks. Ground black pepper is also a realistic addition to this terroir.

 

Zucchini is your personal playground. Sliced lengthwise and scored diagonally, this pale slightly green canvas lets you be you. Have at it! We have already covered the supreme utility that corn on the cob provides. Wild chanterelle and morel mushrooms typically come pre-seasoned with CP, so not much work to be done there. For an advanced effort, make a basic aioli and then sprinkle in a little dried dill weed and smoked paprika. Green tabasco will add a little piquant aftertaste, think fresh pine tree sap.

 

Fortunately for you, a modern heat source can be set and maintained at most any given temperature. This requires very little set-up, fire pit digging and wood gathering, not to mention how much you will save on Scout water. Once you have created the visually correct terroir from your own individual CP, stand back and admire your handiwork. That’s when it hits you. “Wow, this looks like it could have just fallen off the back of the tailgate up at the lake!” And your eyebrows still look nice – and they match from side to side.

 

Now that you have mastered your CP technique, it is time to celebrate this milestone in your culinary retrospective with a nice glass of wine. 

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Dena & Ernie

Amalie Robert Estate Culinary Inclinations: Rosé

Hello and Welcome,  

This is an Amalie Robert Estate Culinary Inclinations: Rosé. A FLOG Communication (Farming bLOG) from Dena & Ernie @AmalieRobert Estate. Oregon Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. 

We are introducing our Culinary Inclinations Series with one of the most versatile wine categories of all time - Rosé. We took a stroll back though our past releases to share our culinary inclinations. As our national pandemic rolls on, the time spent in our own kitchen increases and we thought a little culinary voyeurism might be a welcome thing.

Sadly, we mark this first communication with the passing of Sir Thomas Sean Connery. Our favorite 007 James Bond departed on a rare October Blue Moon, All-Hallows Eve 2020. Diamonds are forever and timeless style never goes out of fashion.

 

Speaking of style, how did this iconic 6’2” Scotsman manage to fit into the most iconic of sports cars, the Aston Martin DB5? The steering wheel may be on the wrong side, but the Champagne was always chilled. We imagine it was a fine vintage Rosé.

 

 
 

Consider this, there is no Rosé variety. Virtually any wine berry with a hued skin can be coaxed into a Rosé wine. Stylistically these wines can be fermented dry or left with a little sweetness, fermented in stainless steel, concrete or oak barrels. Not unlike our former selves running loose in the candy store, you just want to try them all!

 

Rosé is the “right up until” wine in the kitchen at Amalie Robert Estate. A glass of Rosé is just right as we transition from winegrower or winemaker to culinary genius. Offering more than an elegant white wine, but not overly so, Rosé can offer the right balance right up until it is time for the main course. Or with a little pre-planning the main course is ideally paired with Rosé.

 

Pinot in Pink is our Rosé of Pinot Noir fermented in stainless steel after limited juice exposure to the skins. The result is a light bodied and refreshing wine with purity of fruit, a rich mid-palate due to neutral oak aging and a lingering finish. After all, this is Pinot Noir!

 

Pinot in Pink Pinot Noir Rosé is about as alluring as a wine can be. It answers the question “Who are you?” with the most welcoming of responses, “Who would you like me to be?” Equally at ease in public for a carefree rendezvous at a local café, or a more private setting on the back patio as the sun eases below the ridgeline. A charcuterie board? I thought you would never ask!

 

Break out from the daily routine. Finished with the work routine and need a little inspiration transitioning into your culinary genius role for the evening meal? Pinot in Pink is there for you. And if it is a nice fillet of Pacific Northwest salmon or Norwegian steelhead that has captured your fancy, well then, a quick stemware change is all that is needed to go from casual to elegant. From pretty in pink to strawberry blonde in the blink of an eye, providing the collars and cuffs match. What’s it to be tonight?

 

Culinary Inclinations from Amalie Robert Estate: Rosé. Here is a look at our culinary inclinations hoping to pique your culinary curiosity.

 

Pinot in Pink is about that special place that takes you back to simpler times. Tangy cheeses, cured meats and crusty bread from the hamper set out on a grassy bank complement a burbling stream and the wispy clouds ever changing upon an eternal blue canvas. This is your chance to be released from the daily burden of reality, if only for a short time.

 

Picnic pack this – Goat cheese brie, golden raspberries and rosemary garlic baguette. Poached white king salmon topped with black sesame seeds and dusted with smoked paprika. Grilled vegetables and pickled Cipollini onions accompanied by balsamic vinaigrette dipping jus. Don’t forget the corkscrew…

 

The picnic hamper essentials of fresh apples, Gruyere cheese and crusty bread can be augmented with a charcuterie board of cured meats, pâtés, and terrines with a few red cents’ worth of caramelized sweet onion jam. For the white linen picnic gathering bring Copper River smoked salmon palmiers and grilled vegetables drizzled with balsamic vinegar.

 

Once you move past the obligatory cured meats and fragrant cheeses with fresh strawberries and Asian pear, check out the smoked duck breast salad with crumbled goat cheese and dried cranberries. Smoked black cod with mild blue cheese and tangerine segments is a fine substitution. And yes, it is 5:00 somewhere.

 

It’s 5:00 right farmin’ now! Simply think of that special place and put yourself in the picture with your toes in the sand. This wine’s potential is only limited by the breadth and depth of your imagination. But recall the wise words of Alexander Pope from 1711, “Fools rush in where angels fear to tread.” And that is why, we have virtual reality.

 

Bring on the cheese board adorned with cow, goat and sheep’s milk cheeses, set aside a spot for some pâtés, Parma ham and pistachios. So many to try and imagine all the possible combinations! If you have some time on your hands and the opportunity to impress, try your hand at a summer paella featuring rabbit, andouille sausage, and fresh mussels. But be careful, they will be back…

 

Chairman of the Nosh Board. Imagine a painter’s palette and substitute the brilliant colors with your favorite nibbles. Brilliant red peppadew peppers, duck prosciutto, tangy jalapeño red onion jam, triple cream bleu cheese, garlic confit in duck fat, rosemary olive oil crostini, smoked golden trout, olive oil and salt grilled summer squash, 12-month Manchego cheese and the ever abundant olive bowl filled with jewels from all over the world – pitted or not, but don’t comingle.

 

If there were ever to be a definitive paella wine, it would have to be Rosé. And from the great Pacific Northwest, it most certainly would showcase the charms and elegance of Pinot Noir. Surely the traditional paella preparation must be respected, however adding in local, fresh ingredients makes it your own. Our secret substitutions are duck stock and pecorino cheese (Manchego also works well, quite well). A year-round dish that celebrates food, friends, and Rosé. Note: No one has ever said, “Wow, you made too much!”

 

And we saved the most intriguing wine for last, the 2018 Bellpine Pearl Blanc de Noir. Made from nearly equal parts of whole cluster pressed wings of Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, “The Pearl” is a still white wine from these noble red varieties.

 

While the color of Rosé wines is of personal preference, so are the seemingly endless nosh possibilities. We like smoked duck breast and Manchego cheese with fresh ripe raspberries and tart apple alongside a sourdough baguette. A freshly snipped rose completes the ensemble – but of what color?

 

White King Salmon sashimi, spot prawn sushi with roe or seared ahi tuna in sesame oil provide Blanc de Noir contrasts commensurate with the wine’s hidden charms.

 

An aperitif wine served with oysters on the half, caviar and the standard accoutrements, or smoked black cod accompanied by julienned sundried tomatoes, basil pesto, 6-month Manchego and herbed goat cheese crisps.

 

As November leads to December we will close out 2020 and may face the specter of a contested election. From Russia with love...

Kindest Regards,

Dena & Ernie