Welcome to
Okto-vember!
This is the 61 day period that is the most interesting time of
year. The leaves are turning, the grapes are ripening and the German lager bier
is flowing! More on that later...
The harvest is fast approaching, so we will make short work of
the numbers this time.
Through the first 15 days of October, our
highest high was a respectable 87.3 and our lowest high was 83.7. Our lowest low
was above the frost point at 38.0 and our highest low was 40.2 degrees
Fahrenheit. We have accumulated 154 degree days, for a 2010 growing season total
of 1,716 degree days. The heretofore coldest vintage, 2007, accumulated 1,890
degree days. The rainfall through the 15th of October was 1.23 inches and 1.20
inches of that that occurred in a single event on October 9th and 10th.
Summary: The last couple weeks of
September and first 15 days of October have been the most fortuitous in our 12
years at Amalie Robert Estate. This is exactly the type of final ripening
pattern we hope for, moderate days with cool nights and no extreme spikes - just
another day of ideal ripening conditions! But, you don't have to take my word
for it, here is a graphic file from one of our temperature loggers representing
the temperature ranges (Y axis) for this period (X axis).
Note: The 50.0 Degree line represents the lower
limit of the vines' ability to translocate energy from the leaves to the rest of
the plant. During the first part of October we see warm days and warm nights,
but as we transition to harvest, we are seeing clearer skies at night and cooler
temperatures. This trend bodes well for retained acidity in the fruit and
classic, well structured wines.
Clearly, it is too soon to comment on the
quality of the vintage. However, there are a few things we do know as we are
coming down the home stretch.
1) The cool growing conditions have provided
lower sugars (Brix), and therefore we expect to see lower alcohol wines. Brix is
a rough measure of fermentable sugars, or more exactly "soluble solids." In warm
vintages we typically see Brix readings in the 23-25 range. This year we are
looking at around 21-22 Brix, converting to about 12.5 - 13.2% alcohol. To
convert Brix to alcohol, multiply by 60%.
2) We are seeing ideal ripening conditions
during the last 4 weeks leading up to harvest. As I mentioned last month, this
is the time when the flavors and aromas are developing in the skins. This was
also the case in 2008, when we had an extended ripening period through the end
of October. Surely, this is not the same vintage, but the ripening conditions
favor full-on sensory development in the skins.
3) Fruit health in the vineyard is very good. It
is said time is a luxury. In the winegrowing business this translates into the
luxury of harvesting when you want to, not when you have to. Our key fruit
pathogen in the Fall is Botrytis. This is "noble rot" if you are making
Sauternes, but in Oregon Pinot Noir vineyards, it is just
called "bunch rot."
If the vineyard has not been properly cared for, bunch rot will
grow when the temperature and rainfall conditions are aligned. These
conditions occurred in mid September and early October. As we grow all of our
own wine, we were keen to the possibility of Botrytis, and took the appropriate
steps to allow our fruit to hang to optimal flavor and aroma maturity. The key
here has a lot to do with the application of the owners' (winegrowers')
footprints in the vineyard on a regular basis.
4) The waiting game. There are several factors available to use
for harvest "decision criteria". Usually we start by looking at the numbers -
sugars and acids - the science part of winegrowing. We also count 105 days from
flowering as the minimum time for the skins to develop flavor and aroma. This
year we see low sugars and high acids, and are dreaming about traditionally
styled, elegant and age worthy Pinot Noir. Also, the 105th day was October 12th,
so we are beyond the obligatory 105 day "cooling off" period.
We then turn to flavors, berry texture and seed ripeness. As we
walk the field we are constantly plucking berries into our mouths. Something
about hunting and gathering this time of year is a very primal urge. We gently
crush the berry with our tongue and taste the juice, gently chew the skin, feel
for the "jelly coat" around the seeds and then evaluate the color of the seeds
and the crunch. We also notice the stems the berries are attached to because a
portion of these will go into the fermenter intact. This is what we mean by
"whole cluster" fermentation.
External forces are not to be taken lightly. Pinot Noir is
highly sought after even before it is wine. Connoisseurs of fine Pinot Noir take
wing each fall to get an early assessment of the vintage. From the high level of
interest we are seeing from the aviary, I would say we are looking at a "top
flight" vintage. Perhaps a bit lighter in tonnage due to the extended crop
sampling.
The weather plays a key role in harvest. The longer we can hang
fruit, the more developed the flavors and aromas become - to a point. Wait too
long, and we are making wines that tend toward the "dark side" of the flavor
spectrum and more closely resemble Oporto. Also, it is not too much fun to
harvest in the rain.
Knowing our vineyard and it's ripening profile is key in
optimizing our wine quality. Each of our 35 blocks is individually hand
harvested when it is ready. That being said, we do let Ernie's Syrah hang until
November. If you want to keep tabs on the vintage weather, follow this link http://wxmaps.org/pix/pdxgfs.png Maybe
we will see you there!
Lastly, we consult with Mother Nature. In the Spring, Pinot
Noir buds out at the same time the lavender lilac flowers. This is not a
coincidence, but a response by both plants to the growing season. They share the
same trajectory for a short time.
In the Fall, our volunteer Walnut (Ernie thinks it is an abandoned squirrel's nest) starts to turn yellow when the wine is ready to be taken from the vine. This is our final harvest decision criteria at Amalie Robert Estate. We wait for Mother Nature to give us the "go ahead nod" to home plate.
Kindest Regards,
Ernie
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