Hello and Welcome,
And as the first real FLOG of the
year, we would like to give you a little “peak” at what you might encounter on
your visit to the International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) via PDX this year
where Amalie Robert Estate is a featured winery.
While it looks like a snow
covered mountain, it is really a giant volcano getting ready to blow. It could
happen at any minute, but in geological terms a minute can be a very long time.
Did you see any purple lilacs
make their stunning debut this year? Here in Wine Country that is an indicator that
the Pinot Noir vines are coming around from their 6-month hiatus (Not that they
really went anywhere exciting during their time off). It is also the time of
year Ernie switches his morning accelerant from French Roast to Bold Italian.
Ah, springtime in Wine Country.
It reminds us that while you don’t have to be crazy to grow Pinot Noir, it
certainly helps. April brings all four seasons in a weekly variety show. You
want a crash course in climate change? Come on out to the farm and try to get
something farmin’ (related) done!
And when that magic break of
sunshine does appear, you will be glad you ordered a couple hundred gallons of bio-diesel
when you had the chance and before everybody else wanted theirs. Tractors and
implements, when properly engaged, can affect significant change.
As in a rotation of the cover
crop from the fall mix designed to feed our vines and hold the soil onto the
side of the hill in the face of 45 inches of annual winter rainfall. To the
spring mix that provides a wonderful environment for our beneficial insects and
also fixes nitrogen to feed our vines. These little plants draw moisture from just
the top few inches of soil so as not to compete with the vines. It may be the
vineyard floor, but it has a job to do like everything else. It is the Master
Farmer’s job to figure that out. Sustainable cover cropping - Not everybody
does it, but everybody should.
As previously described, in excruciating
detail, a vineyard ecosystem is quite simply the physical implementation of a
mental construct, rife with the effects of unintended consequences. In software
terms, when something does not do what it is supposed to do you would say “That
is a feature not a bug.” In farming, when you run a little short of cover crop seeds
you say, “That is an experiment and this over here is the control.”
Another common farming phrase is
“I meant to do that.” With that simple phrase, you can never make a mistake. Here’s
how it works. Let’s say you brew decaf for the morning accelerant – an apparent
mistake. Your caffeine deprived breakfast companion catches you out. When they
push the point of you having made a mistake by brewing from the wrong
container, you very boldly assert, “Oh, I meant to do that.” While this may
lead to further interrogation, you have absolved yourself from having made a
mistake.
But this is a powerful phrase and
we caution that you use it with some discretion. At work for example, when you
mistakenly open an E-mail attachment that brings down the entire corporate
network – worldwide. Or maybe in front of the traffic cop who is interested in
learning more about your decision to run a red light. Very powerful indeed.
And guess who is making an aerial
assessment of the vineyard this fine spring. Yep, it’s our winged nemesis Vespula
germanica, Aka: Those Damn Yellow Jackets. But with a little ingenuity and a
strong will, we can turn this event to our advantage. And have some good fun in
the process.
Yellow Jackets identified
– Collect all four!
This is the time of year Vespula
germanica (the chubby one with the bad attitude) is looking to establish new
nesting sites. That means they are buzzing about and can be trapped. April or
even into May is the right time to catch these blighters so you can fatten them
up all summer long. Start with the standard cylindrical Yellow Jacket trap and
add your favorite attractant. We like salmon scraps for bait, because Vespula
germanica likes salmon scraps. That is bioengineering here in Wine Country.
Once you lure them into the
traps, you can change their diet to suit your intended uses. Corn will fatten
them up just fine and is not too expensive. Of course, once they are in captivity,
they become a lot less fussy from a dietary point of view. However, they can
get pretty cranky depending on how successful you were at filling the traps. You
will want to resist the urge to name them.
Now, fast forward to your summer
BBQ on the back deck. You can add a few of your fattened-up Yellow Jackets to
the Chex mix. We recommend a little extra Worchester sauce in this preparation.
It is always good fun to add them
to the ice cube tray with a little food coloring to obscure their presence. We
like yellow because it looks like amber from thousands of years ago. While it
is not a common occurrence, they can reanimate upon thawing.
And when someone asks how a Vespula
germanica got frozen in their ice cube and then flew up their left nostril, you
are ready with the most appropriate response (ever) – “I meant to do that.”
Of course the more creative
adults will want to pull the wings off of them. Kinda cruel we know, but just remember
they do have it coming to them. And much like ordering diesel, you will want to
get your Epi-Pen prescription filled before you actually need to use it.
So there it is. The vines are
awake, the vineyard floor has been turned, reseeded and showered upon. And we
are on the hunt for Vespula germanica. Springtime in Wine Country, vintage 2019.
And that brings us to the
numbers, with a brief introduction from the patron animation of farming.
“This April it was hot, and then it was not. And sometimes it rained,
but only on you and for no more than just a day or two.
Tilling the soil and mowing the grass, that doesn’t leave much time to
sit around on your …”
The first number to be aware of
is 60. That is 24 old G’wzr vines and 36 new G’zwr vines, while in separate
blocks, they will all be in fruiting harmony this year. Add that to the 50-some
thousand Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Viognier vines and we
have quite a unique mix of varietals here on the Estate. You may say random, we
say eclectic. And yes, we meant to do that.
April Degree Days, aka heat
accumulation, started the growing season off with a very respectable 105. Add
another 2,000 and we can call it the vintage of the year. What follows is a
somewhat brief description of the farming construct “Degree Days” for those
inquiring minds that were too shy to ask or had more important mental challenges
to conquer. As if…
A Degree Day is a made-up number.
But it does represent the full wine growing season beginning in April through
harvest. And being a number, it can be compared year to year providing all
sorts of analysis paralysis (hard to do with colors). Numbers give us
confidence, validation and a sense of comfort in knowing where things stand in
relation to other similar things. Age, they say, is just a number, but hair
loss is real.
Take wine reviews for example.
Regardless of what you may have read, the 100 point scale is in reality a 16
point range from 85 to 100 inclusive. Degree Days here in Wine Country run the
range from a very cool to cold growing season of around 1,700 to a very hot and
intolerable 2,700. That is a 1,000 point range that provides a wide variability
in the styles of wine produced from vintage to vintage.
Now wine berries have distributed
themselves around the planet based on where the heat is, or is not. The
Willamette Valley is a good home to Pinot Noir and other varietals that have a
tendency to develop very expressive aromas and flavors while only accumulating
enough sugar for moderate alcohol potentials. These two phenomena should occur
at about the same time. Most of the time. And that is the time to harvest and
ferment them into wine.
Other varieties grown in warmer
regions, like the Napa-Sonoma nebula, would not develop aroma and flavor in the
Willamette Valley before the end of the growing season. This would make poor
quality wine that would have to be augmented with Syrah from eastern
Washington. And the “Red Blend” category was born…
Thinking caps on. Back in the day
when a loaf of bread was a quarter, Degree Days were calculated on paper
ledgers using a pencil. A person with an outdoor thermometer would write down
the high and low temperature of the day and average it. Please note the
inherent systemic variability of sampling error in this system. If the average
was below 50 degrees there were no Degree Days recorded because the vines are
not getting anything done when it is that cold.
Any value above 50 degrees was written
down as the Degree Days accumulated for that day. So let’s say your office
thermostat is set to 72 during the working hours and 68 the rest of the time.
The daily average high and low temperature is 70 degrees. That means you are
accumulating 20 Degree Days per day, or about 600 degree days a month. Apply
that to 7 months from April through October and you have 4,200 Degree Days in
your office space. Maybe it’s time to change out the office vegetation with
some Tempranillo vines.
But you don’t. Because the real
average temperature is 72 degrees for about 8 hours and 68 degrees for about 16
hours providing a real average temperature of 69.33 degrees. This works out to
19.33 Degree Days per day, 580 per month and 4,060 per growing season. The
variation in the vineyard space is significantly more pronounced with daily
diurnal shifts covering 50 degrees or more. So just like evaluating fine wine,
more samples are in order!
We derive Degree Days, as you
would imagine, differently than most. Our weather station takes a reading every
12 minutes. Each 12 minute temperature reading is logged into an electronic
spreadsheet that converts the temperature reading into a number representing
the Degree Days for that 12 minute period. We then have the computer sum the 3,600
individual temperature Degree Day values into a monthly total. Add the months
from April through harvest or October 31, whichever comes first, and that is
the total Degree Days for the growing season. We then overlay the rainfall each
month to add a bit of complexity to the growing season. Easy peasie, lemon
squeezy.
And that is how we can tell you
the high and low temperature of each and every day of the growing season and at
what 12 minute interval it occurred. For April, we will just split the month
into the first 15 days and the next 15 days. The first half of the month was
cooler on average, with a high of 62.4 and a low of 35.1 (27.3 degree diurnal
shift). The second half of the month was where the real heat was with a high of
78.4 and a very chilly low of 32.7 (45.7 degree diurnal shift). The Degree Day
totals were 18 and 87, mutually exclusive and collectively exhaustive.
April 2018 came out of the gate
with 110.1 degree days with a high temperature of 82.9 and a low of 31.50
degrees (51.4 degree diurnal shift). We are hoping to avoid the arid conditions
that finished off that vintage, but the tail does not wag the dog as they say.
And yes, we had rain, 5.33 inches
to be exact. We got all the right drops in all the right places. That served as
a reminder that Ernie needs a new hat…
Join us next month when we will
do a deep dive on shoot spacing, the number 12 and why you can never get rid of
all those water sprouts. Here is a hint, they are called “epicormic buds.” You
know, suckers.
Kindest Regards,
Dena & Ernie
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